At the summit of the Little Saint Bernard Pass, on the border of France and Italy, on a pass traversed by humans since prehistoric times, a grand stone building has watched over travellers for almost a thousand years.’Hospice du Petit-Saint-Bernard (Haute Tarentaise), long-time ruined then resurrected, reopened its doors on June 1st for the summer season.
In charge for six years, Sophie Bornet continues a centuries-old tradition of hospitality here, in a resolutely family spirit. «What's interesting is that it brings together several of my passions: mountains, cooking, meeting people.» does she trust in Le Petit Montagnard.
From a Chartreuse farm to the roof of the Alps
Nothing truly predestined this enthusiast to reign over a mountain pass at an altitude of 2,188 metres. Sophie Bornet, who was initially trained in agriculture, was a cheesemaker on a large farm in Isère, in the Chartreuse region, then a technical advisor for Beaufort, before going it alone.
- READ MORE: Why does everyone now stop at the Petit-Saint-Bernard pass in the summer (and stay there)
«It was complicated in the farming world. So I bought a small property, transformed it into a restaurant, and proclaimed myself chef.» she would smile. It will be Sophie's World, around twenty covers at Aime-la-Plagne, which she ran for six years before going to hone her skills with other chefs.
Then comes the proposal that changes everything. «The Friends of Petit-Saint-Bernard, who were managing the building at the time, asked me if I was interested in coming on as manager. I didn't know the place, so I took the keys and went up there.» Six years later, she's still there.
Home cooking between two countries
On the plates, Sophie Bornet cultivates her attachment to good produce, a legacy of her agricultural roots. The intentionally concise menu highlights both sides of the pass: the famous «collar plates» brings together charcuterie from Savoie and the Aosta Valley, a gourmet nod to this unique border position.
At lunchtime, it's time for generous cuisine, inspired by producers from the Tarentaise and Aosta Valley. But it's in her signature menu that the chef truly tells her story. «It’s 100 % of creativity, depending on the products I find at the markets and what takes my fancy.» she explains.
On the menu recently: gazpacho with focaccia, or a locally sourced pork shoulder slow-cooked overnight at 80 degrees, prepared with Asian flavours and wrapped in filo pastry for crispiness, served with sesame, star anise and cinnamon rice, and a carrot purée infused with orange blossom water. «I like to have fun, I like to create. Here, anything is possible.»
A human-sized shelter, open to the whole world
Although the building is immense, the establishment itself remains intimate: six rooms, including a dormitory, for a total of thirty beds. A format that Sophie Bornet stands by. «I feel good there because it's small and I stay in touch with my clients.» she glides. And what customers! «I've never seen an establishment that caters to so many different types of clientele.»
Passing hikers, families taking over the lodge for a family reunion, groups on seminars, elected officials meeting in the European room (the building is now jointly owned by the Aosta Valley and Savoie), and travellers from all over the world mingle there, echoing the original purpose of the place.
Ever since the time of Abbot Chanoux, «the angel of the mountain» Here, hospitality has been provided for half a century, and the spirit remains unchanged: to offer lodgings and food to those passing through the pass. A philosophy that Sophie Bornet hopes will continue, as a renovation project is being considered.
«The family-friendly and convivial aspect must remain. We mustn't follow the example of most establishments by turning towards luxury. That would be more true to the original purpose for which this building was constructed.» And to conclude, with the humility of those who know the mountain is greater than themselves. «I'm only passing through. The project isn't for me, it's for the building and for the travellers.»
Find out more :
- Opening : from 1 June to mid-October (depending on the pass opening dates)
- Table: Home-style cooking at lunchtime (local dishes, produce from the Tarentaise and Aosta Valley), half-board in the evening, dinner available on reservation subject to availability.
- Accommodation : Overnight stay with half-board from €65 per person in a dormitory, €75 to €124 in a private room (free for under 2s, €50 for 3-10 year olds).
- Groups & privatisation: Guesthouse or reception room available for private hire for up to 100 guests
- Good to know: «Accueil Vélo» labelled, partner of the Route des Grandes Alpes, cycle hire and charging points
- Bookings : auberge.psbernard@orange.fr 06 84 52 63 09
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